Today I sit in an internet cafe in a town in Morocco that I can't even spell. Now, more than ever, I am having a hard time convincing myself that this is actually happening to me. Yesterday we checked out of our 4 star, $15 a night, hotel and headed for the bus station. There was an experience! First, in this male dominated, French speaking society there is little I can do as far as getting directions and help. Thank God (yet again) for Daniel. I stood back, trapped in the whirl wind of Arab speaking pushy men forcing their help to Dan. I just followed and didn't ask any questions. Note to self: anyone who is very helpful is expecting money. Everyone is your friend until they realize they aren't getting money from you. It sounds shady...and it is...but for some reason it doesn't feel as underhanded as it could be. Learning to say no is essential. Somehow we ended up sitting on a bus, whose seats were rarely attached to the floor, surrounded by Muslin women covered from head to toe and roasting in the desert climate. We sat on this bus for 2 hours while we watched and wondered at this amazing, strange culture that is so foreign to us. For a reason I have yet to figure out, picking ones seat on this bus was a big deal. People often sat down and then relocated, reserving seats with anything from a purse to a piece of cardboard to a plastic detergent scoop. Fascinating to watch. The bus ride was long, tedious, and over a hundred degrees but it was beautiful. The experience was beautiful and the scenery outside our window was magnificent. I have to remind myself that I am not watching the Discovery channel...this is actually happening to me. On our second bus we sat in front of 5 fellow backpackers. 3 are from England and the other 2...well, I am not quite straight on their story. One guy(we will call his Jimmy Hendrix), I think, is from Rabat here in Morocco and the other..no clue. We watched the mountains go to sleep as we inched along the curvey mountain roads and finally reached Chefchoauen. What a breathtaking sight to see this white washed city nuzzled against the side of a mountain with just enough light left to give a foggy outline.

Upon arrival we decided to follow our new found friends to a hostel. Somehow (it's all a blur to me) we ended up in a hotel above a restaurant. Apparently our Jimmy Hendrix friend comes here often and knows the owner of this restaurant and hotel. For the grand total price of $4, we dropped our bags in the room and headed downstairs for some food. This is what I picture Morocco to be. Our tables sat in a little cove carved out by ornately decorated arches and pillars. Inside was a cozy table surrounded by pillow covered benches and candles. After eating and listening to loud "Mali" music, we had tea and relaxed. Then the music was turned off, the front door closed and several of the servers sat down in the middle of the restaurant and began to play Moroccan drums. Every once in awhile a friend would walk in, sit down, order tea, close their eyes and let their bodies by taken over by the beat of the music. Phenomenal.

It was a restless nights sleep in the heat, but hey, it's only $4. Now we are out to see what this city looks like in the light of day. I love this city thus far. It is a definite "must return."

Side note: It is very interesting to be here as a woman. The cafes (moreso in Fes) are only visited by men. To walk by and see no women is quite an astounding sight. Dan and I wanted to have some dinner the other night in Fes. What a strange feeling it was that we might not be able to go to certain places because of my sex. I was prepared, before we came here, to cover my head. But for the most part I have been completely comfortable dressing the way I always do. However, at the bus station yesterday it was a different story. We walked in and I was so caught up in trying to figure out where our bus was that I didn't notice anything. But once I stepped back I realized I was the only women in my sight that did not have her arms and head covered. I was not the only one to notice either. The looks were subtle but somewhat uncomfortable. This description of my experience of women in this society might lead you to believe they are quiet, shy creatures. I shall say not. The women can be loud and very straight forward. Twice I have seen women yell at people for standing too close to them on the bus. I have learned so much about gender role in this culture and I have learned only that I understand it less.

This has been an experience like none other and I have learned so much about myself and the world in only 3 days. Our spontaneous side trip to Africa has turned out to be the highlight of our European vacation. I will definitely be back!